Ideas for Puerto Rico]
<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=95 BGCOLOR="#999999" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="044005f0ermwup.gif"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFFFFF" FACE="Arial" ><B>Vacation in Puerto Rico</B></FONT><B> | </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vacation in Puerto Rico"><U><B>top</B></U></A></div> <div> </div> <div> <A HREF="id8.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Map of Puerto Rico"><U><B>Map of Puerto Rico</B></U></A></div> <div> <B>Back: </B><A HREF="id24.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Old San Juan"><U><B>Old San Juan</B></U></A></div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=190 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <B>A., my wise, charming and true friend, was born and raised in Puerto Rico. We share common interest of the finer arts and have stayed in touch although we have both left New York City, where we met many years ago. When I knew I was going on this vacation, he sent this eMail message, which he's kindly allowed me to share with you all.</B></div> </td> <td valign="top" height=385 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> Ideas for Puerto Rico]</div> <div> Here are some suggestions on additional things to do in Puerto Rico.</div> <bR> <div> When you arrive at the airport, secure a copy of "<B>Que Pasa</B>", a free monthly magazine put out by the Tourism Department in English and Spanish, that will tell you anything of interest happening while you are there and will give you directions, telephones, and addresses to most of the places I will mention here. You can also get "<B>Que Pasa</B>" at any Tourism office, or at stores in Old San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde. If you will rent a car and drive around by yourself, buy a good map. If you want more background or more suggestions than what you would get in the "<B>Que Pasa</B>", get the "<B><U>Adventure Guide to Puerto Rico</U></B>" by Harry Pariser. You can get it at 'The Bookstore' in Old San Juan, or any other "decent" bookstore, for about $16.00.</div> <bR> <div> Old San Juan</div> <bR> <div> You have to go to Old San Juan and spend time roaming the old colonial streets. To do that well it is best to avoid the weekend. During the day there is lots of activity but on Monday or Tuesday night you may feel you have the whole Old City for yourself, which I do like. Some galleries open late on Tuesday evenings, but some museums are closed on Monday. Weekend nights are best avoided: traffic is horrible going into the old town and the streets are full of revelers and party-ers, many heading to awful places like the Hard Rock Cafe or Planet Hollywood. The city used to be walled and you can see remnants of the old wall intact in many, many places.</div> <bR> <div> In Old San Juan, you should visit one of the colonial forts. El Morro is very nicely situated and has nice grounds leading to the building proper. San Cristobal is bigger and probably more impressive as a fortress, but unless you really are interested in military history, visiting El Morro should suffice. Near El Morro, at the other extreme of the commons, are the headquarters of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture and a state's Plastic Arts School. The symmetrical large building used to be a military hospital and that is where I was born.</div> <bR> <div> From el Morro you can peak down to the ocean and see the old cemetery outside the walls. Also outside the walls you will see our unique "ocean property" slum, La Perla. Under no circumstances should you venture there. Lore has it that the people who live in La Perla are very territorial and will not tolerate outsiders. (I have never been.) The government has attempted to relocate all of them at one time or another, but they always go back, as if lured by sirens. It is also said that they know who actually lives in Old San Juan and will not commit any crimes against them, preferring instead to hit tourists and Puerto Rican outsiders. (That is probably myth.) Regardless, be careful with your cash and your camera. During the day you will be perfectly safe, and at night, just use your city smarts. Old San Juan is safer than New York City or San Francisco.</div> <bR> <div> The San Juan Cathedral is modest by most standards, but directly across it is a magnificent little street. So if you are in that vicinity, do step into the Cathedral and light a candle. The "El Convento" Hotel, a former Dominican convent is on this lovely street across the Cathedral's front entrance. I stayed in El Convento before it got its last facelift and my Senior Luncheon was in one of its halls. The new makeover is a little too slick, but it is still a nice place. I would recommend having a drink at the bar, and if the idea of trampling over dead nuns while doing something naughty appeals to you, then putting some coins on the main floor's slot machine salon (which is said to have been built right on the nun's graveyard) is something you could try.</div> <bR> <div> The Iglesia San Jose in Old San Juan is my favorite. It is the second oldest church in the Americas and its simplicity appeals to me. The plaza next to it is a gathering spot for the party-ers I alluded to during the evenings. The Pablo Casals Museum is in one of the buildings around the plaza. Casals lived for many years in Puerto Rico and founded the Conservatory and the Festival that bears his name. He married a former student from Puerto Rico when she was 18 and he was something like 75. She is now Mrs. Eugene Istomin but was known then simply as Martita. The Museum has memorabilia, nice souvenirs, and periodic showing of videotapes from the once excellent Casals Festival. I revere the man. Were it not for him, I would have never developed such a great love for classical music.</div> <bR> <div> The "Paseo de la Princesa", if it is open, is a nice area in which to stroll. (It was under renovation last November.) It starts by the ramparts to the South right in front of an old prison, named La Princesa (now the headquarters for the Tourism Department), hence the Paseo's name. The Paseo goes by the bay, some gardens, gets you through the San Juan Gate, the only remaining one of the few that kept the walled city "closed", takes you by the Casa Rosada and culminates in the Casa Blanca, a residence built for the then governor, Ponce de Leon. Although he died (in Florida) before it was completed, his heirs lived there for some years. The house's location is great and the gardens are very nice. Governors soon after moved to a "safer" home, which you can see from Casa Blanca and the Paseo de la Princesa. The building, at one extreme of Fortaleza street, is familiarly called "La Fortaleza", but its official name is Palacio de Santa Catalina. One can tour the grounds, first come first served on certain days, but rarely can one go inside. The interior is magnificent. When I was little I was there twice on "official" functions, but it is harder now to get in when the Governor is in residence.</div> <bR> <div> La Rogativa, a very nice and evocative sculpture, is in its own little plaza. The story commemorated by the sculpture can be read in English on the statue's base, I believe. I used to take a book and spend the better part of a day reading in and around La Rogativa's vicinity.</div> <bR> <div> La Capilla del Cristo is a trip, but is only open one or two days during the week. Peak through the doors, if it is not open. The park nearby, El Parque de las Palomas, is fun and nice, unless you think that pigeons are filthy, disgusting animals (I don't). I thinks the street where the Capilla del Cristo is located (Calle del Cristo, or is it the next one parallel?) has a few cafes that serve food and drinks al fresco late in the afternoon.</div> <bR> <div> Two other museums are worth mentioning, La Case del Libro, an old mansion with rotating exhibitions, is nice architecturally. The Museo Felisa Rincon is named after a former mayor and displays, among other things, her extensive collection of fans (hand fans, a la Spanish).</div> <bR> <div> As you can guess, I love Old San Juan. Above all it has atmosphere and it is a sometimes beautiful, sometimes jarring mixture of the old, new, Spanish, colonial, and American. A full day will get you to see and explore most of it.</div> <bR> <div> For eating: breakfast must be taken at La Bombonera, a noisy picturesque cafeteria, where the locals eat and the waiters never retire. At La Bombonera you must have orange juice, fresh squeezed (the only kind they serve) from local oranges (uglier than the California or Florida varieties, but tastier), espresso coffee (a sign proclaims this is the only kind they serve) and my absolute favorite, a toasted mallorca (a sweet bread with butter sprinkled with powder sugar). Lunch there is good to, but for more local color you should try El Jibarito, which has excellent criollo food at very reasonable prices. Avoid the noon rush hour. Get there at about 1:30, get a table by the window, and have some nice cold beer (stay away from wine here) while you wait for your surprise dish.</div> <bR> <div> If you have never tried tostones, this is your chance to do that. They are mashed, formed, fried, green plantain patties. You eat them with salt sprinkled on them, or you dip them in a sauce tastier and nicer than salsa (called mojo, pronounced moh-hoh), that is not as easy to find as salt. They are starchy, fattening, and delicious. They are accompaniments, like fries here, not a main dish. Mofongo, a mashed balled version with garlic, can be stuffed with almost anything. That is a little fancier and could be a main dish. I love alcapurrias, but it's hard to get good ones that are not homemade.</div> <bR> <div> For fancier fare La Mallorquina is fine. The food really is not spectacular, but the atmosphere and locale are pleasantly tropical. This is where I take my grandmother when I want to treat her to a nice, safe lunch. Bistro Gambaro is nice and cozy. La Chaumiere offers excellent French food and is expensive. Al Dente serves good upscale Italian Food. The Panorama Bar and Grill is supposed to have nice food and a lovely view, but I have never eaten there. If you should feel a lowly craving for fast food, you will find your share of the American variety in Old San Juan (as well as all over the island).</div> <bR> <div> Ocean Park and Condado</div> <bR> <div> Condado used to be a very exclusive place where the big expensive hotels were located and the rich people lived. It is still full of hotels and rich people, but the surroundings have somewhat deteriorated, and the moneyed can now be found at other enclaves.</div> <bR> <div> I will however, tell you about Ocean Park, a more quiet residential area, near Condado, that boasts two fabulous guest houses with restaurants. Numero Uno on the Beach is a guest house on a quiet nice white sandy beach. Less than a mile on the beach due east, on Calle Tapia, you will find Hosteria del Mar. This is less polished than Numero Uno, but for my taste, superior. Some of its rooms have balconies facing the beach, all very simple and peaceful, yet in the middle of the Metropolitan area. Hosteria del Mar's restaurant is a nice wooden structure right on the beach with great views. The food is not bad either. Check out Numero Uno, if you are inclined, but regain you peace at Hosteria del Mar. A word of warning: these places are "safe" but near them is a bad public housing project (Llorens Torress). If you rent a car, lock it and do not leave valuables in plain sight. At night you have to be a little extra careful. Actually, that advice holds anywhere in the Metropolitan area.</div> <bR> <div> The Hotel Atlantic Beach in Condado has a beach bar open until 10 in the evening. The bar across from it, The Barefoot Club, another beach bar, is open 24 hours but after midnight is sometimes hustler territory. Nonetheless, it is a nice place to hang out. Just play it safe. Ajili Mojili (restaurant) on Ashford in Condado used to be excellent, but I have not been there in a long time.</div> <bR> <div> Santurce</div> <bR> <div> Not much to recommend in this sadly deteriorating area that used to be grand and fun. A few areas here are now becoming trendy with the over 30 set. The only reason I even mention this is because Crash, the snootiest disco, is on Ponce de Leon Avenue, in Santurce. Very pretty patrons parading, loud music, lights, big place, that type of thing, just in case you are interested.</div> <bR> <div> OUTSIDE The Metropolitan Area</div> <bR> <div> If you have not had enough of the "country" at Palmas del Mar, then you can try these. You will need to rent a car to get to these places.</div> <bR> <div> <B>El Yunque</B>, the rain forest, the only one of its kind in the National Park Service, is pretty and is a good place for hikes and a picnic lunch. Bring wet weather clothes, which here means an umbrella and a light plastic rain poncho. El Yunque is not too far away from Humacao, so you could visit it from Palmas del Mar. Luquillo Beach, near el Yunque, is a nice public beach and makes a nice contrast to the wetness of El Yunque.</div> <bR> <div> But if you are searching for better beaches, then arrange an excursion or a plane ride to <B>Culebra</B>, a little island off <B>Fajardo</B>, and you will not regret it if you do it on a weekday. Here you will find white sand, beautiful blue waters, and many desolate beaches where you can sun in the nude (but again, not on weekends) if you want a seamless tan. The same thing can be said of <B>Vieques</B>, another little island off Fajardo, although the Culebra beaches are probably superior. Vieuques does have something Culebra does not: a great bioluminescent bay (and much better than the one in the main island at La Parguera). If you arrange an excursion (it is the only way to get to it) you can even swim in the sparking waters at night. Warning: many of the beaches in Vieques were (at least as of last November) occupied by protesters demanding the departure of the US Navy. An accident last summer, during maneuvers, killed a Puerto Rican civilian and this has sparked endless demonstrations. If you want to stay in Culebra, I recommend an overnight at Mamasitas. In Vieques, I recommend the Inn on the Blue Horizon, but it is expensive, and hard to reserve rooms in it, although with the protests, it may not be as bad.</div> <bR> <div> The <B>Arecibo Radio observatory</B> is impressive and makes one feel quite remote in the universe. If you seek a sojourn in the mountains, head to Hacienda Gripinas in <B>Jayuya</B>, or Hacienda Juanita, in <B>Maricao</B>. Both places have restaurants that serve decent local fare. Getting there is half the fun, and the scenery along the way is very pretty. Take dramamine, if curvy roads make you car-sick.</div> <bR> <div> If you still are in need of activity, or have any time, or disposition, try <B>Ponce</B>, the second largest city, and on the southern coast. The area around the Plaza, with the Parque de Bombas, has nice architecture, sort of Criollo Beaux Art. The art museum, endowed by a former millionaire governor, is also in Ponce, and has a nice collection of local artists, some old masters, and a good collection of Pre-Raphaelite art, including the justly famous, Flaming June. My godparents lived in Ponce and when I was little I would spend a few weeks during the summer with them. Although I like Ponce very much, other visitors I have taken there like it, but do not rave about it.</div> <bR> <div> I would tell you more, but I am afraid it would be beyond what you could do in the scope of a week. </div> </td> </tr></table></body>