REDSTAR (FROG) 1:72 ANATRA ANASAL DS

 

Reviewer: Steve Hedworth (contact via SMAKR webmaster)
Kit Review submitted:  22 November 2009

Aircraft History:

First flown in December 1915 the Anatra D type was designed by the Frenchman des Camps. Powered by a 100hp Gnome Monosoupape rotary, an order for 80 aircraft was placed in April 1916. This was later increased to 700 but was curtailed when 205 had been built. Shortcomings in the manufacturing methods, often brought about by shortages of good quality materials, led to many aircraft suffering structural failures. Locally produced engines were also of variable quality and some Anatra D’s were fitted with 130hp Clerget rotaries. Armament consisted of a single machine gun mounted in the rear cockpit. Peak employment at the front was in April 1917 when 76 were in service. 

The improved DS entered service in mid 1917 and less than a hundred were built before production was curtailed by the Russian revolution. Powered by the 150 hp Salmson water cooled radial it had improved fuel capacity and speed increased by 8 mph to 89mph. They served both sides during the Russian civil war and some aircraft were used by the Czech air force post war.

A well built Anasal was far from unsatisfactory and could look after itself with an competent crew. It was armed with a forward firing machine gun for the pilot and a free firing observer’s weapon in the rear cockpit. Up to 30kgs of bombs could be carried.

The Kit:

I bought this about 15 years ago during my non building absence from the hobby. Knowing nothing at all about the manufacturer I posed the question to the experts on the Aerodrome. This is what I learned.  The kit was originally tooled by Frog shortly before their demise and subsequent takeover by Novo. The Russians did not release the Anatra but it was later done so by Red Star, of Beckenham, Kent, UK. Later, in 1990, it was reissued by Emhar. It is composed of firm grey plastic, once common for Frog, and the wing detail isn’t too bad in my eyes. There are some nice panels and louvres in the engine area.

Instructions:

Clear and concise. Printed on the back of the header card to the blister pack. Main exploded view is backed by three inserts which show the construction of the cockpit layouts, the radiator and tank and a diagram identifying the location holes in the top of the forward decking for the radiator pipework, cabane struts etc. The other side of the card has the artwork and colour schemes.

Construction:

A cockpit floor is provided with moulded seats. A control column, map table and two backrests are provided. I didn’t use the rear seat backrest as I thought it would have interfered with the observer’s duties. As I intended to crew up, there are none provided, the column was omitted. Next the radiator and header tank are joined together and set aside.

The fuselage comes with two sides and the top decking separate.  The engine and propeller shaft are located into the guide holes in the front of the two sides. The halves can now be cemented together. The shaft is secured and the engine cowl added. The cockpit, after painting, is positioned behind the engine and the upper decking can now be brought into place.  The tail planes are part of this piece and care is needed to make sure they are level. Mine were not and I had to resort to sawing a nick into the underside of the starboard plane to tilt it level with the other. The joins are not too bad. A little filler in the engine area and some more under the tail plane joints. Now we have to reduce the fuselage length as it is a scale foot too long. First cut was right in front of the tail unit. Then 6mm, or 0.2 inches, was removed from the rear fuselage. With the benefit of hindsight, or more likely a lack of foresight, I should have cut off  8mm. This is because I cemented a piece of plastic card to the rear of the fuselage to give the tail unit more surface to adhere to. I didn’t take this into account when considering the length. Never mind, the procedure worked and the slight step produced was taken care of with a dab of filler and filing. While the filler was out I filled one of the nose machine gun troughs. I had previously removed one of the gun butts from the front cockpit.

The lower wing was next and there were only very slight gaps which succumb to glue and paint. Rudder is next in sequence but I left it to nearer the end.  Positioning the radiator assembly onto the forward cabane struts is the next step. It is a little fiddlesome but persevere. The struts have integral triangular supports and the radiator has guide lines underneath. Get these lined up and let them almost dry and then set them into the correct locating holes. Position the triangular rear cabane struts and let it almost dry. Cement the windscreen while you’re waiting and you should also add the radiator pipework. Guess who didn’t.  Although the instructions don’t say so I would advise that the inner interplane struts are cemented to the lower wing at this stage. Finally when the glue has a hold but the part can still be adjusted install the top wing. The forward cabane struts should be about right to receive the locating holes in the wing. I pushed the interplane struts sideways so they wouldn’t interfere with the delicate task of lining up the centre struts. After a little to-ing and fro-ing the struts were in the respective holes and I pushed the interplane struts into their guide holes. Success. The wing was spot on. The radiator / front cabane assembly ensures that the wing is in the right position. Take your time and line the struts with the guides under the radiator. It is a simple system but it really does work.

I had pre- drilled holes for rigging and painted the wings Humbrol 121 to simulate CDL. The roundels had been applied and satin varnish secured them and gave the wings a nice finish. At this stage I added the rest of the struts and began rigging. Most of the top wing holes were only half way through with the exception of the innermost holes alongside the middle struts. These wires are fixed into the fuselage and have to be pulled tight through the wing. This time I drilled holes in the outermost strut locating holes on the lower wing. When the wire was pulled tight the strut was popped into place and a touch of CA secured the joint. It saved another visible hole and seemed to work all right.

The pilot had been added earlier and the undercarriage is the main item to be fitted. There are two spreader bars and the axle to be connected to the undercarriage struts. It’s slightly awkward, I snapped one of the thin spreader bars and had to replace with thin rod, but patience brings rewards. A touch of polystrene glue held the assembly in place until I was happy with the position and then CA was administered to firm everything up. The wheels are clear transparencies with moulded spokes. I tried to paint the spokes but failed. I have never liked this type of wheel so I painted them CDL. A picture of a crashed Anasal seemed to show covered spokes so that did it for me.

A generator, complete with a clear plastic circle to represent a spinning prop, the tail skid, the prop, rudder and tail plane struts complete the kit. But I still had the pipework to contend with. I could not get the two rear pipes to fit so they were replaced with thinner, more malleable Contrail rod but I used the forward pipe simply because it fitted. And finally, for some reason there is no observer’s gun provided. A Lewis came from the spares box and as the gunner’s ring has a Germanic look about it, it was installed on a short pole.

Colour Schemes:

There are two options. One is CDL overall with olive green metal panelling. The other is what I believe was called forest green with similar olive metal parts. These schemes have been questioned more recently and the metal should be natural although the CDL is correct.  I may be wrong but a lot of Bolshevik aircraft seem to have been treated to green upper surfaces and pale blue unders. If you want to use this scheme add some appropriate red stars.

Incidentally, the aircraft depicted in the green scheme is now in the National Technical Museum in Prague where it has been restored in a CDL colour scheme.

Decals:

Imperial Russian air force roundels and a choice of two serial numbers. Despite their age they were no problem.

Accuracy:

Some of the respondents to the question of the kit’s origins raised scale issues suggesting that the fuselage and wings were different. My comments here are based on the finished aircraft in front of me and a twelve inch ruler.  The wingspan measures 6.7 inches which converts to 40 feet 2 inches. Munson quotes 40 feet 7 inches. He gives the length as 26 feet 7 inches. The unaltered fuselage scales at 28 feet. The modified version comes out at 27 feet because of the extra plastic card I used. The kit is 1.8 inches high which is the equivalent of 10 feet 9 inches. Munson states 10 feet 6 inches. Worried in case I had missed something I used Munson’s plan drawing to work out the width of the tail planes which are 10 feet 4 inches. The kit is 1.8 inches, or 10 feet 6 inches. Last, the cockpit area checks out at just under 4 feet and the kit measures a scale 3 feet 9 inches. As far as I am concerned the kit is 1/72 scale but it does carry certain discrepancies. The most obvious is the fuselage length but that is easily corrected. The wings are thick, particularly the leading edges. I am always loath to file off detail because I can rarely replace that which I have lost so they were left alone. Others more skilful will want to get filing. The struts are designed with strength in mind although pictures I have suggest the real thing was no weakling. Contrail or not, it’s up to you. I went for strength as I have had Contrail bend on me when in the middle of rigging.

All the sources I have consulted state that the Anasal was a conventional two seat reconnaissance craft armed with a forward firing machine gun and a free firing weapon in the rear cockpit. The kit has twin guns in the nose and none in the rear although there is a gun ring integral with the upper decking. The rear seat has a back which suggests a trainer. But none of this matters because most people’s spares box will provide what is missing and an excellent model can be built from this kit.


© Steve Hedworth 2009

Conclusions:

There is a resin kit around which is said to be very good but in the plastic injection world this is the only game in town. This is an old kit and you don’t get Roden standard wing edges or superfine pipework etc. But the basics are there and there is plenty of scope for additions and improvements. Assuming the Emhar version is a reissue then the above applys to it also. It is cheap and although I haven’t gone into to it too deeply yet it looks as though it could lend itself to some interesting conversions.  As the only game in town, recommended to those not expecting to build OOB.

References:


© Steve Hedworth 2009

 

SMAKR Home  |  What's New  |  Submissions  | Information Requests |  News  |  Links  |  Reference Corner  |  Site Info 
1/72 Reviews  |  1/48 Reviews  |  INBOX Reviews