Chenonceau
Chenonceau is considered by many to be the most spectacular
of the Loire Valley châteaus. Built on an arched bridge
that was itself built on the remains of a fortified mill, the
castle spans the Cher river, seemingly floating on the water.
Chenonceau bears the mark of several powerful women. The main
castle on the bank of the river was built in 1512 by Catherine
Brinçonnet, wife of a financier. Acquired by the crown
some years later, the property was given to Diane de Poitiers
by King Henri II in 1547. Never shy about the fact that he had
a lifelong mistress, Henri encouraged Diane as she designed the
garden and built the covered bridge over the river. After Henri
died, his widow, Catherine de Medici, forced Diane to trade Chenonceau
for nearby Chaumont. Catherine transformed the gallery over the
river into an Italian-style gallery and rebuilt part of the interior.
Louise de Lorraine, Catherine's daughter-in-law, inherited the
château in 1590 when the king died; she turned it into a
depressing shrine to her late husband, painting the ceilings black
and white and never leaving her room. The next major influence
was Madame Dupin, who hosted writers and philosophers from 1739
to 1799. Thanks to her good standing with the villagers, the château
was spared during the French Revolution.
The castle tour takes you through most of the rooms, including
the bed chambers of Catherine, Diane, and Louise. There are numerous
pieces of furniture and works of art from the various time periods
during which Chenonceau was inhabited. One room displays dozens
of paintings and prints of the castle, which has always been a
favorite of artists. The most interesting part of the visit is
the kitchens, which are deep in the recesses of the first two
pylons in the riverbed. Beside the castle's main building is a
13th-century round tower that now houses the gift shop.
